11th Hero MTB Himalaya Stage Race October 2015

The days ticked down before we were ready to get going.....

Stage One

Race day finally arrived.  First was a neutral ride to the town square where the local dignitaries wished us well on our journey, followed ba ride up to The Ridge before leaving in groups of 5 for the race itself straight into a technical descent.  Following that was a brutal climb and without much racing through summer I felt rusty and struggled with the 32-chain ring.  At the top I was passed by 2 Europeans and saw that as way to make up time on my slow climb.  They motored along the flat ridge and though I managed 2 turns they soon came past to ramp up the pace again.  They rode away on the next climb and I was alone and cautious through the small villages we passed where the traffic, pedestrians and wandering cows were the main concern. 

Week of amazing views and high mountains

The race continued on up and down through forest tracks and down gravel roads.  I ended up back with one of the riders I had tagged on with and we rode together up the last climb to the finish.  I won the woman’s category and came in about 16^th overall, a result I was very happy with considering how bad I felt for the first hour. 

Descending down from the finish we were welcomed to a beautiful campsite set amongst a meadow.  My expectations were surpassed yet again with hot buckets of water for showers, thick sleeping bags and inflatable mattresses in our tents and a seamlessly endless supply of food with lunch, snacks, dinner and my favorite new find: Marsala tea. 

 

With Vanni who would go on to come 2nd Master

Stage Two

I slept better than I had all week thanks to a hard day on the bike and fresh mountain air as well as very good earplugs and that super thick sleeping bag!  The stage started at 8.30 and we headed off straight up hill. I rode with Daniel Carruthers from New Zealand and Kiran Kumar, the leading Indian rider, for quite a while until the next long climb.  For over an hour we climbed through apple orchards in blazing heat on rough slow going terrain and it was a real welcome to enter the forest at the top.  From there was a great descent through the forest and a long descent that wasn’t that welcome as I knew this was part of the loop that would take us all the way up again.  The next climb was steep then turned gradual through a pleasant forest jeep track.  All alone now the track went on and onto go on yet I was still only at 50km.  Finally the track came out and back to the forest descent.  Some of the back markers were still coming down and luckily most of them were told to miss the loop out otherwise they’d be out well after dark.  On paper the last 30km was downhill and it was actually quite accurate.  I had a real sugar low and started making a few errors on the descent so even though the finish was close by I stopped at the last water point, had a colslaw sandwich that hit the spot and saw me arrive safely at the finish line along with Kiran who had got a flat near the end.  I was very glad for the company as from the finish we had a 10km slog to the camp.  Tired and with temperatures now over 30 degrees it was very unpleasant and moods didn’t lift much as we arrived at a barren overgrown camp with no seats out and the only shade on the dust under the Red Bull banner.  There were very few negative remarks made about the route, it took me 5 hours 20 and considering this is most riders first stage race, a lot were been brought in the trucks or arrived in the dark.  Two Portuguese crashed badly on the last descent, one with a broken leg; the other broke his shoulder,  a few vertabra and ribs which shook us all badly in the camp and, hearing the rescue mission to get them to hospital had taken hours was a reminder to all that we were really out in a remote area and from then on I’m sure every rider rode with extra caution. 

Stage Three

Khegsu – Kullu Sarahan

106km

Rumors were flying around about a shortened course and there was a communal cheer when it was confirmed 25km were to be taken off making the day around 80km. A huge off road climb was replaced with a gradual tar climb and it meant for a faster start as I tried to hang onto the second group on the road.  I managed for about 15km and though it was hard, it felt good to get some ks under the belt with company.  A fast descent followed and along the valley I caught up to Kiran taking his time at the feed stop.  We rode together after that enjoying the long tarred sections after yesterday’s grueling stage.  With 12km to go the real work began; straight up a very rocky steep climb.  In my easiest gear the whole way it was a mission to ride  and comical for us both as the only way to get up was with surges of effort followed by an almost track stand rest.  From a bird’s eye view it would have looked like we were making very slow motion attacks on each other.  One hour and twenty minutes later the suffering ended and I improved my finish with a had a top 10.  The climb was worth it and as I saw the camp in front all the pain faded away.  At 2200m altitude the camp was set out just down from a village with an anciant temple, surrounded by mountains with green meadows behind where cows wandered, kids played and locals were collecting dried cut grass for the cattle through the winter.  This was our rest day camp and as the riders trickled in from a slightly easier but rewarding day spirits were high and we were all looking forward to tomorrow.

Rest Day

It felt a strange and new thing to have a rest day in the middle of a stage race but it turned out to be an excellent day and made the whole adventure a little more like a holiday.  I slept in till the sun made it too hot in the tent and had a leisurely breakfast of eggs and Indian breads.

Relaxing with breakfast on the rest day

After washing kit a few of us headed up the mountain to a waterfall an hour or so away.  It was a hot walk but well worth it as I put my costume on and had a very refreshing shower while the guys drank beer chilled in the pools.  

The only downside about our walk was that I’d missed the school visits.  Every day the supporters and some crew would go to remote schools and teach the children about the Global Goals for Sustainable Development made up by the United Nations as well as telling them about out mountain biking adventure.  I did however meet some of the locals later that day as I headed into the village, took a look around the temple and had pictures and chatted with the local woman thanks to wandering up there with Shachi, the only Indian girl in the race. 

 

Local traffic jam

Local woman collecting grass 

Stage Four

Kullu Sarahan – Bahu

Our rest ended abruptly with the steep rocky descent back down into the valley.  No issues and soon we were back on the tar road from stage 3.  I was alone the whole day and took in the views of the snow topped mountains 100km away before turning off the road at 60km.  I’m sure there were more views worth seeing but the next descent required full concentration starting with a tricky single track then a loose gravel road with long drops off the side.  The finish was again up a long 10km climb though not as steep or as long as I’d planned for and I was only at the finish a few minutes before Kiran arrived having had a bad stomach all night and feeling pretty empty of energy.  Camp was a few kms down the road by a river.  Low down now it was a warm afternoon and I didn’t mind the cold bucket shower though we did complain that the only non spicy thing at lunch was plain rice and got overly excited about some butter veg the team of cooks then whipped up.  The food so far has been excellent considering the resources available out here.  Breakfast is Indian spicy foods I wouldn’t dare touch before racing as well as nice breads, porridge, honey, cereal.  Lunch is simple rice, pasta and (usually not too spicy) lentils followed by tea of scrambled egg, biscuits, more tea and salty snacks before a late 8 to 8.30pm dinner of a whole range of veg and non veg dishes, soups, rice, pasta, breads and butter veg followed by many variations of hot milk pudding. 

 

A short walk to get a bird's eye view of the camp

Stage Five

Bahu to Gada Gusaini

80km, 2912m ascent

The new Queen Stage and the profile looked like it would be a long long 80km ahead with a climb all the way up Jalori Pass at 50km. We started going up from the off and I hung off the back of a group of three unable to quite bridge across.  With some steep rocky parts the going was slow and hot.  Finally we reached an out and back section that split the climb up a bit though adding on a section that included some barely ride able single track seemed a bit unnecessary even if it was through some nice forest.  Back on the climb and all alone with no one in front or behind I had no idea how far we had left and the kms dragged by until the final steep section came along.  From there it was only 5km to the top though for some reason I had 10 in my head so was pleasantly surprised when the temple at the top of Jalori Pass came in view.  I had had a few demons in my head and was struggling with riding so much alone until I saw woman at work breaking up huge piles of stones and at that point realized how lucky and privileged I was doing what I was doing.  The local woman here are all very happy looking but they know no different and will never travel or see half the things or have certain luxuries I have been lucky enough to have and see.  Talking to Shachi, she literally begged her parent to let her come and race such is the culture here and it seems a long hard battle for equality. For woman to pursue sport as a hobby let alone a career here must be very difficult and not encouraged at all it seems. 

 

Leading rider, Luis flys the flag at the top of Jalori Pass

At the top we were given 15 minutes to take photos, eat and chat to some of the supporters up there before the final 30km.  A brilliant descent then a long last 20km uphill rounding off a long 6 hour day for me and an even longer day for many of the field with the last riders coming in in the dark to the cheers of us keeping warm around the camp fire.  

Stage Six

Gada Gushaini to Chindi

98km, 2900m ascent

Down in the valley made for a very cold start and my warm up consisted of many cups of Marsala tea.  The cold also brought about a chocolate craving of all things so at 8.30am on the start line I had a small bar and felt the benefit for the first climb!  The start was through a few river crossings and across meadows and with the fresh cool air I felt energized and enjoyed the route.  From the top was a long descent and with no one insight in front or behind I switched off race mode and cruised down enjoying the scenery. As look would have it Kiran caught me at the bottom and we chatted and suffered together up the next long climb, a loop that took us back down some good single track and a sketchy rocky descent.  3 hours 30 in and only half way we knew we were in for another tough day and the 40% tar mentioned was more like 10% by the time we reached the town before the last big climb.  I have come to enjoy following Kiran’s line, he is technically a great rider and rides through traffic like the locals drive, crazy but highly skilled.  Its true, the drivers are brilliant: they overtake on blind bends relying on their horns, squeeze through gaps not there, drive on roads with small cars we would struggle to drive with a 4x4 and speed amongst pedestrians, goats and cows but in my whole trip I haven’t seen so much as a knock.  So I came to follow Kiran through the chaos of this town, shouting like his mother to be careful but then chasing back when a bit safer to do so.  He had a scary near miss, overtaking a bus and coming head on with a car but somehow managed to swing his bike sideways and stop in time.  Reckless yes but he trains in traffic every day and I’d also say very highly skilled.  

Camp was up another 5km hill,  very steep with loose stones and again difficult with my gearing and aching knees. Kiran took 4 minutes out on me and nearly caught back the riders in front despite us having no sign of them all day.  I didn’t mind the tough climb… it means camp is high, has views and therefore offering a nice breeze and cooler night and we weren’t disappointed.  Set amongst a Government house some of the girls even found a real toilet to use but I have got used to the hole in the floor and actually have started enjoying the cold jug of water shower.  Poor Walter had a less than fortunate experience.  Having survived the rocky descents, extremely hot climbs and a stomach bug that was taking a lot of riders down, he slipped in the shower, stood on a nail and ended up with a huge cut on his foot requiring 6 stitches!  The organisers told him his result as 2^nd team would still stand if he didn’t race the next day but he did actually finish all be it in a lot of pain. 

Stage Seven

98km, 2200m ascent

Chindi to Shimla

The last day came and there was excitement around the camp.  The three leaders were riding easy and 12 or so of us had a steady first 10km down the tar descent.  Turning off onto rough ground we split up and I got back onto the tar and started enjoying the views and taking it easy down the rest of the descent.  A few km’s later Daniel, kitted out in baggies and a shirt was clearly having fun and chased past me and I couldn’t help but tag on.  I rode 10 meters or so behind, sprinting out of corners and flying down the tar until we caught up with the front group again.  It was a lot of fun and before even having a drink we had 40km under our belt.  I knew a long 2 hour climb was coming up and took some time at the feed stop before settling into a steady pace spinning on the flatter bits and pushing on the steeper parts.  Once on the top came a longer than expected road drag and I was glad to eventually catch Daniel for some company to the timed finish line on The Ridge 8km outside Shimla.  The main finish line, a big banner and podium set up at The Mall was another 8km through the crazy traffic into Shimla that obviously would have been an impossible end point. 

 

Congrats and hugs all round

The organisers saw to it that instead of having a long hungry wait at The Mall, we were taken to a lovely restaurant where I had the most welcome iced coffee ever and we cheered every rider that came through the door.  The podium presentation in the square was a big affair with lots of local dignitaries; champagne, photographers and lots of onlookers making it really feel like we’d done something special.  To be crowned Queen of the Himalaya did feel great but surpassing that feeling was sharing the adventure, the good and hard times in such remote and extreme places with new friends and coming together at the end was very special.  Returning again with Rob to share the experience would be something I would love and hope to do. 

Leading men made a better effort with spraying the champagne

 

Riders gradually gathered together at The Mall

Top three woman

 

All the finishers together for one last evening

Thank you so much to all the organisers at HASTPA for firstly inviting me to the 11^th Hero MTB Himalaya and secondly for treating me so well and looking after me from arriving to departing.  Its always stressful arriving somewhere alone but from the moment I stepped out of the airport at Delhi I have been taken care of and been amongst such friendly and motivated volunteers and staff rubs off and helps make for an amazing experience.  It was a unique challenge against the terrain rather than a race and one I would love to return back too.  I would recommend anyone come ride as long as you like climbing! A lot of us said some of the days were too long considering the amount of climbing we had to do and this meant that on some days less than 50% of starters managed the whole route but shorter routes were often provided and failing that, riders were picked up and allowed to start the next day.  I have massive respect to every fellow rider from the pro men at the front battling it out, to the riders finishing in the dark and starting again barely 12 hour later, to those like Ilda who suffered illness and injuries like Walter with his stitches but still continued to the end.  I am also extemley grateful to all the supporters who kept our bikes working,  gave massages, kept us fed and clean every day and took all the photos and videos we can share with friends.   I’ve done many stage races and this one had the hardest climbing, required the most determination and involved the longest hours each day I’ve ever done. 

Final Results

Men:

Luis Leao Pinto 27h29

Andi Seewald 27h48

Pau Zamora 28h19

Woman:

Catherine Williamson 34h31

Ilda Perreira 38h52

Laxmi Magar

Best riding buddy Kiran who came first Indian along with Ashish and Srishti who looked after me from stepping off the plane!

Stage Eight

The journey itself deserves to be a stage in itself and by the time I arrived in South Africa two days later I felt more exhausted than after the Queen Stage.  I was extremely grateful once again to the organisers for treating me so well and booking me into the Ibis hotel once again after the long 10h bus drive back to Delhi.  Surviving that bus journey was a relief , we had the most aggressive driver ever to the extent of him stopping on the highway, blocking another car in, getting out, pulling the guy out of the car and punching him such was his road rage!  After a long wait for a taxi to the Ibis and a solid nights sleep I had a lovely outdoor swim, waffles for breakfast and complementary taxi to the airport 10 minutes away feeling refreshed and well.   The stress came again booking in and been told I’d have a excess charge of around 400 pound unless I lost 8kg.  I went away from the desk, took anything remotely heavy from my bag from my wash bag to my spare tyre and hid it on the trolley under a fleece and jacket and went back.  The check in man insisted I must only have one check in bag and off my nearly empty large bag went.  I then planned to throw everything back in my bike bag once taking it to oversized luggage, a trick I have always got away with unless as in this case, a porter comes along to take the bike.  At this point I was really stressing so imagine my relief when, once out of sight, the porter told me to stuff everything back in before we got to the scan area.  I could have hugged him but instead discreetly gave him some notes and thanked him a lot.  

Two flights later I arrived in Johannesburg where in a few days time I’ll race Berg and Bush in the Mixed Category, a race that has always been on my Too Do List and part of the Joberg2c trails.  I’m not expecting to be fresh but am looking forward to racing back in my favorite country and catching up with friends I haven’t seen since May!!

Thanks to my Rubena Tyres I had no flat tyres all week despite the rocky, loose terrain and Squirt Lube kept the chain running smoothly despite the dust. My KTM duel was a must, I wouldn't recommend anyone ride a hard tail.